What Does Your Skin Care Routine Really Need?
Skin is enjoying a lot of attention these days. The days of St. Yves Apricot scrub and cleansing with a bar of soap are over. Your grandmother's heavily scented, harsh cleansers are out.
Now it's all about luxury skincare routines that Cleopatra could only dream of. Chemical exfoliants, Korean beauty routines, face oils and collagen supplements are in. We are spoiled for choice, and it can honestly get overwhelming.
Don't know where to start?
Skin is the largest organ of your body. As you take care of it and preserve its glow, you will encounter a dizzying array of products in categories you may not be familiar with. But you don't need to use everything under the sun: instead, you need to find what works best for your unique skin type, texture, and sensitivities.
This guide has everything you need to know about the best and the latest in skincare, from washing your face to nourishing it with serums.
All You Need For A Complete Skin Care Routine
Step 1. Cleansing
The cleanser is the first step in every skincare routine. You need a gentle facial cleanser that will melt away makeup, dust, and pollutants without drying out your skin.
Your skin has a built-in system to kick out bacteria from your pores and keep everything balanced. A harsh cleanser can strip your skin barrier of the protective natural oils that help your skin stay healthy. So while washing your face is necessary, it may be the most damaging step of your skincare routine.
Look for a pH-balanced cleanser. A slightly acidic cleanser is gentler on the skin.
Not every skin type needs this step twice a day. Many people don't need a cleanser in the morning and can just use water. See how your skin feels.
Extra step: Double-cleansing
A gentle cleanser cannot melt away heavy makeup and waterproof sunscreen properly. A gentle oil-based cleanser or makeup remover is great as a first step. Followed by a foaming cleanser, the double cleansing routine ensures that no gunk is left on your face to cause blackheads, acne, or dead skin build-up.
Step 2. Lightweight Water-Based Products
This is the step you need to lock in moisture and target any problems you have. There are many different products for the second step: essence, toner, serum, ampoule... the list is endless. You can apply several in order of heaviness, but it is best to start with one product and build from there.
All you need to know is that on your wet face, you need a lightweight water-based product that locks in moisture.
Hyaluronic acid is a miracle worker for hydration. Each molecule of hyaluronic acid can hold onto more than 1000X its weight in water. It makes skin look fresh and healthy. Try the 'sandwich technique': use a hydrating toner or mist, then your hyaluronic acid product, then mist again.
Step 3: Products With Active Ingredients
Skincare products that contain active ingredients help target specific issues and solve them. Depending on your skin type and the skin concern you want to get rid of, look for the following in your routine:
Vitamin C
A Vitamin C serum can transform your skin. Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant. It can protect your skin from sun damage and free radicals. It's especially effective for dark spots and inflamed spots left after acne. Make sure you use sun protection with Vitamin C products, because they make your skin more sensitive to UV rays.
Ferulic acid is a form of Vitamin C that is approved to be used in the daytime. It makes for a great antioxidant serum that has anti-ageing properties. Your Vitamin C serum should be from a reputable company and must be kept in the dark to preserve its freshness.
Salicylic Acid
Salicylic Acid is a great exfoliator. It's a beta-hydroxy acid or BHA, which means that it can dissolve in the oil in your skin to penetrate it, and clean from the inside. Salicylic acid is especially effective for oily skin and acne. Keep in mind that some studies show that salicylic acid may be an endocrine disruptor, so if hormone health is a priority for you, opt for a different active ingredient!
A mild serum with BHA can be used every day. To prevent irritation, do not use higher concentrations more than a few times a week.
Glycolic Acid
Glycolic acid is also a great exfoliator. It's an alpha-hydroxy acid. Unlike BHAs, alpha hydroxy acids stay on the surface of the skin. A glycolic acid serum is a great addition to any skincare routine, but it's especially good for treating dark spots. Lactic acid works similarly, and it takes better care of sensitive skin.
It's better to leave this step for your evening routine, because AHAs make skin sensitive to light.
Benzoyl Peroxide
This powerful spot treatment must be used with caution.
If you have dry skin, it should only be used as a spot treatment, for when you get an occasional zit. Sensitive skin types may be better off skipping it altogether.
For acne-prone, oily skin, however, benzoyl peroxide is a miracle. A low concentration applied daily can prevent small acne breakouts. A highly concentrated cream can flatten acne in hours.
Retinol
Retinol or retinoids are the holy grail of celebrity skincare. Scientifically proven to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, retinoids are a wonder of modern technology. Retinol is a class of retinoids that does not require a prescription to use. Retinol is gentler on sensitive skin while cleansing away dead skin cells.
Tretinoin is stronger than retinol, but requires a prescription and can cause irritation.
A good retinol serum will not only be anti-aging, but will reduce dark spots, acne, rough texture, and the appearance of large pores.
It's no wonder that retinol is a celebrity favorite! One thing you need to know is that it can make you sensitive to sunlight. That's why it is best suited for your evening routine.
The Secret of Active Ingredients
Active ingredients have anti-aging, cleansing, exfoliating, and brightening powers that make them a must-use. Ingredients like acids and retinol must be introduced carefully in your skincare routine.
Your skin takes time to adjust to increased exfoliation, so slow and steady is the key. Start with exfoliating only a few times a week. The secret is restraint.
Step 4: Moisturizer
Moisturizer follows lighter products in your skincare routine to provide hydration and keep skin fresh all day. Especially at night, a good night cream helps your skin recover, replenish, and build your protective skin barrier.
Even if you have acne-prone skin, moisturizer is essential.
Skincare needs vary from person to person and also seasonally. Some people with acne-prone skin prefer oil-free, light moisturizers. These come in gel forms.
For dry skin, it's a no-brainer that a heavier moisturizer is necessary. These come in cream forms.
Moisturizers may come with active ingredients too. Face cream with hyaluronic acid is a great moisturizer. Creams may also contain vitamins, minerals, retinol, and acids. Many also have SPF ratings so they provide some sun protection.
Morning vs. Night Moisturizer
This step is essential for skincare in every routine. Morning moisturizers are lighter. Go with a heavier night cream before sleeping to help your skin rejuvenate.
Extra step: Eye Cream
Many people are skeptical about eye creams. Your moisturizer may be enough but thin under-eye skin may need extra care. Eye cream, especially at night, can work wonders.
Some of the first signs of aging show up in fine lines around the eyes. Eye creams contain heavier moisturizers that your delicate under-eye skin needs. An eye cream with ingredients like retinol and caffeine will be anti-aging, along with reducing dark circles and puffiness.
Extra step: Face Oil
A skincare oil (not essential oil) as the last step before sunscreen is a great moisturizer. It traps all the replenishing water that hyaluronic acid will hold for you, keeping your skin hydrated, especially at night.
Both oily and dry skin types can benefit from high-quality oils like grape seed, rosehip, marula, or jojoba oil. Sensitive skin can also benefit from the calming, protective qualities of oils.
The sandwich
Many people swear by this moisturizer trick: wear a moisturizing serum on a wet face. Let dry. Fill the middle sandwich layer with any compatible actives. Moisturize again to seal it all in. This is a secret that helps skin hydrate and renew at night.
Step 5: Sunscreen
This is the morning skincare essential. Even if you don't have the time or energy to do your full routine, don't even think of missing this crucial step.
Sunscreen is your best anti-aging weapon. Sun damage causes dark spots, uneven skin tone, fine lines, and wrinkles. Sunscreen application from an early age is the best skincare secret.
Even if your moisturizer contains sunscreen, it most likely has a low SPF. You need a broad-spectrum sunscreen that will protect you from all kinds of UV rays, the ones that tan, burn, and age you. Broad-spectrum sunscreen can have chemicals, minerals like zinc oxide, or both.
The Best Sunscreen
Choose a sunscreen lotion or cream with a minimum of SPF 30. SPF 30 blocks 97% of the sun's rays. The best sunscreen is not the one with the highest SPF or the heftiest price tag. Your best broad-spectrum SPF protection will come from a cream you like enough to apply every single morning.
For your daytime skincare routine, a broad-spectrum sunscreen is a must. People with darker skin tones often think they can skip this step, but black skin needs sun care too. If the texture and white cast of sunscreen are a deterrent for you, look for gel-based formulations and tinted broad-spectrum SPF formulas.
Conclusion
There are countless blogs, books, and other resources about skincare, and it is easy to get confused. In this article, we barely scratched the surface! But with the basics laid down here, you'll be able to get started with a basic range of products that will make your skin healthier and glowier.
Remember: everyone's skin is different, and what works fabulously for your friend or someone you follow on social media, it may not be the right choice for you. Keep trying until you find the right products for you! Your skin will thank you for decades to come.